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Suzy, Cathy & Hillary

Suzy, Cathy & Hillary

Oct 26
 Ovidiu Buta
 
In lumea modei romanesti aproape toti care scriu despre moda (sau cred ei ca fac acest lucru) au cate un nume fetish a caror munca ii inspira deseori atat de mult incat uita sa specifice in textele lor sursa principala, atunci cand preiau aproape identic idei, expresii sau fraze. 
Daca ar fi sa fac un top al celor mai “citate” persoane din presa, pe primul loc s-ar afla Suzy Menkes.  Cel putin in ultimii doi ani am regasit suficiente fragmente preluate din articolele ei si strecurate, cu titlu de contributie personala, prin diverse ziare si reviste.  Pe la inceputurile carierei mele, cand ma ocupam strict de London Fashion Week, asteptam si eu cu sufletul la gura cronicile semnate de Suzy pentru ca doamna are un talent aparte de a sintetiza o intreaga colectie in maximum 15 cuvinte.  Ea a lansat si celebra replica "Ce vina are hartia? De ce sa sufere si ea?" ca raspuns la intrebarea "Ce vei scrie daca o colectie este foarte proasta?".  In timp un alt nume a intrat in atentia mea: Cathy Horyn. Principala calitate a ei este ca nu se fereste de cuvinte.  Iar intr-o lume in care jurnalistul de moda devine de cele mai multe ori prieten prea bun cu designerii sau chiar consultant pentru anumite branduri, Horyn ramane o exceptie.  Memorabil comentariul ei despre Prada

State of Affairs: Miuccia Prada

"Everybody has been talking about the Prada show.  Did you like it? Did you hate it? I must say it wasn’t one of my favorite Prada shows, but I love the fact that Miuccia Prada will just wing it every now and then. Wreck house, as my son likes to say when you’ve done something big.  Ms Prada’s fall collection seems a continuation of her fascination with banalities. The cheap coat. The vulgar color.  She put out a lot of new fabrics that would certainly draw comparisons to upholstery and bath mats. And the blues and oranges made you think of those stuffed wind-up ducks and rabbits you see sold on the streets here. All this is fascinating and proof, I suppose, of Ms. Prada’s rich imagination. My problem is that, on most days, I don’t want to look like a stuffed duck or a bath mat. Knowing the legitimate war that Ms. Prada wages within herself about commercialism, I heartily admire her guts. We should all be bold. But this time I felt she was rather too immersed in the realm of ideas and abstractions to be effective."

De fapt care este diferenta dintre un "jurnalist de moda" si un "jurnalist de moda credibil"?  Independenta financiara.  Atunci cand faci aceasta meserie, degrevat fiind de orice obligatii fata de cei despre care trebuie sa scrii, lucrurile suna cu totul altfel.  Acesta ar fi idealul, dar ce te faci cand lucrezi pentru un titlu a carui filozofie este bazata pe ideea "reclama noastra, stapana noastra"?

Si o dedicatie de la Tudor :) 

http://tudorchirila.blogspot.com/2007/10/aria-spagii-asta-e-romania.html

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