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Pentru Marc de la prieteni

Pentru Marc de la prieteni

Sep 17
Ovidiu Buta 

Show-ul lui Marc Jacobs pentru ss '08, inceput deja cu traditionala intarziere (niciodata mai putin de doua ore), a lasat destula lume nelamurita: ce a vrut sa spuna Marc?   De ce show-ul incepe cu finalul? Si de ce atat lenjerie?  Cativa fashion editori au decis sa faca efortul si sa ne spuna "de ce show-ul lui Marc a fost atat de bun".  Replica lui Cathy Horyn de la finalul textului face toti banii.

Marc Jacobs

Oh, Marc Jacobs, how you captivate, mystify, and woo the masses!  There's no way to address this spectacle in brief, so let's just roll with it:  Monday night's epically late show at the Armory was presented in reverse order, with the designer taking his bow before presenting his evening gowns, the clothes then progressing backward from his finale.  Despite the two-hour wait, even WWD knew it was seeing "something special." They fell for Jacobs's "delightfully costumed experimental sexcapade," also praising combinations like slip dresses appliquéd with bras and panties, a stringy dress, and "haute florals and adorable animalia." 
 

Style.com praised the designs as "off-kilter and knock your socks off," such as the show's opener, a silly-string guipure gown that featured a peek of satin lingerie. The "bonkers surrealist streak" worked, with cashmere sweaters featuring sheer panels and a black beaded evening dress suspended from nude lining. "Gimmicky?" they asked.  "You bet.  But also fascinating." 

But perhaps a bit too fascinating?  Even the Associated Press weighed in on the show, complaining that the half-finished looks were hardly wearable (despite the two-hour delay, Jacobs "looked like he could have used a little more time"), but they admit that the collection nevertheless fell in step with spring trends: "color-blocking, sheer overlays, sequins, and nude and natural colors with bright pops from purple, pink and orange." And finally, Cathy Horyn was nothing short of smitten, heralding the collection as Jacobs's redefinition of sexy, "an antidote to the cartoonish Jessica Rabbit sexuality that has dominated women's fashion for more than 20 years."

She also complimented the "something special" label, applauding Jacobs's quirky eroticism found in tweed skirts that reveal undergarments with sheer panels at the side or the back.  Wearable?   For some, Horyn said, but there's a bigger picture at hand: "Because of the sensibility of the designer, [the clothes are] respectful of women in a way that Britney Spears's fishnets are not." 

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